Ice cream machine! Ice cream machine! Yes, as warned, I decided it was time to break out the ice cream maker to deal with the black sapotes in last week's CSA bag. The basic recipe: flesh of two ripe black sapotes; 1 cup heavy cream; 1 cup milk; about 1/3 cup sugar (I happened to have sitting around some extra sugar which had been used to coat some candied orange peels, which was imbued with the scent of the oranges' oil, and used that); zest of one clementine. (I was aiming roughly for the flavor profile of the long-gone Baskin-Robbins mandarin chocolate sherbet, the odes of which I've previously sung). Mixed well to incorporate the sapote into the cream, chilled, and then into the ice cream maker.
I'm actually pretty pleased with the results. The flavor of the sapote is perhaps somewhat indistinct, possibly because I'm not accustomed enough to it to recognize it. But there are some dark chocolatey notes, as well as some dark fruit notes like date or dried fig. The orange is not overwhelming but is noticeable and lightens up the flavor some. If I were to be generous, I might say the flavors are reminiscent of a port. I might try a little agar-agar next time to improve the texture. I tried it with a spoonful of arequipe, a Colombian dulce de leche type product with coconut that I found in the grocery store; not bad. I may also try with some candied kumquats to up the chocolatey/citrusy quotient.
The real test will come when I have the kids try it tonight.
http://www.gabys.net/3.0/products/prod_Sor_black_sapote_a_lorange_sorbet.php
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Two sapotes worth of pulp isn't much to flavor two cups of dairy. I think a little vanilla, maybe a little cocoa to boost it up would have helped. Maybe just a little rum or banana liqueur too, which would also help keep the texture scoopable.
ReplyDeleteBut the big key to success I found with my black sapote ice cream recipes is substituting in a cup of coconut milk for the cup of milk. Rounds out the flavor and does great things for the texture.
Looking forward to trying this one day when it's warmer.
ReplyDeleteDavid,
ReplyDeleteHit me up, bluechefs@gmail.com
I hear the Cobayas are planning a SoBe dinner.
Danny - that's what I'm talking about.
ReplyDeleteSo the kids gave the black sapote ice cream a thumbs up, but not so much that they clamor for second servings. The arequipe, on the other hand, they are mental for.
Chris - I responded by email, we're working on it.
I tried this on Tuesday with Meyer lemon zest in place of clementine. The ice cream took no time to prepare--perfect for a midweek dinner party. I, too, would have liked the black sapote to be more prominent, but that didn't stop us from polishing off big bowls of it.
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